Exploring Enugu: A hike through Ngwo Pine Forest.
The first rule of hiking for rookies should be, “Do not attempt to hike in the rain”.
It was the first rule I broke when I went hiking in September, a month when the weather throws tantrums and rainstorms strike without warning. Although there was no loss of life nor limb, I would advise you to check the weather forecast before setting out on a hike any time of the year.
The hike to Ngwo Pine Forest was organized by the Mountaineers, a duo passionate about exploring Nigeria.
At 11:00 AM, two hours after the scheduled meetup time at Old Park, a rickety bus filled to and beyond its capacity chugged fitfully up the Milken Hills.
It felt up being on a merry go round. A dangerous one that went on and on on a hill with just a yellow and black barrier protecting us from a sheer drop below. By the left the hill rose as we ascended with shrubs and green grass growing out of it, staring down on travelers.
We arrived at the silent town of Ngwo in about 20 minutes. As we passed through the town, a few of its residents milled about the kiosks and the occasional churches by the side of the road. We saw the pine forest before we got to it. Green pine trees stood tall and proud against the horizon on our left.
The bus stopped and deposited its passengers and the driver turned around leaving us, the forest, our ignorant enthusiasm, and a few measly supplies.
Proud Tall Pine trees
The Ngwo pine trees planted about 50 years ago to combat erosion that once plagued this large area of land. The sky was dotted by the brown tree trunks and green branches from our view beneath.
The ground was wet, softened by recent rainfall making my boots sink into the soft red earth as our group walked through the silent pine forest, our voices breaking its serenity. A path led into the forest, devoid of signs to direct a hiker. We walked down the unmarked path as we looked for a place for an impromptu picnic of some sort.
We settle on sitting in a circle in a clearing in the forest.
By our left, there is a thicket of pine trees, on a lower elevation. Eyes avoid it as suspicions on how unsafe it could be to venture out there fill our minds, unspoken. Introductions and snacks are passed around and the forest was filled with sounds of our excited shouts as we played some games.
Finding the waterfall
Two men emerged from the shadows of an uncompleted building in the forest and offered to guide us to the Ngwo waterfall. The smell of weed permeated the air, I personally felt uneasy but the two men that organized the trip seemed confident in these defacto tour guide.
We picked up our mats and began the descent through the forest to the waterfall and the cave. A light shower began and the group was forced to proceed downwards slowly despite the discomfort of the rain.
With unsteady steps and my hands gripping arms of anyone nearby, I made it down the hill alive. I personally have always disliked hikes. Any steep incline is bound to make me run at first sight.
We passed several farms marked off by makeshift fences made out of crooked sticks and strips of cloth. Hemmed in by small plots such as these, we made our down the winding path to Ngwo cave. At some point, we reached a hole in the ground and had to jump in to proceed.
We arrived at the cave, thoroughly drenched. We had to take off our shoes when we reached the entrance of the cave, the light showers had made the waterfall increase its flow and a small stream had formed at the floor of the cave and was flowing downwards.
The cave had a distinct sound of an outpouring of liquid into a hollow space and our voices were lost in the ensuing din of the increased torrent (the water coming down increased in intensity because of the rain). The hikers who had decided to stand under the waterfall got drenched in muddy water that replaced the near clean flow minutes before. Bathed in dirt, they rushed to the edge of the cage alongside us as the little stream started rushing with a ferocity that belonged to a larger water body.
As water rushed down into the crevice below, my eyes took in the pile of rubbish that had made the edge of the entrance of the cave its home.
Wraps of noodles, sachets of water, and other non-decomposable waste lay looking up at us with accusing eyes, scarring the scenery.
I averted my eyes to escape the guilt as I notice that humans have left their marks on the walls, names scratched upon its surface. Some stand alone, others are in twos proclaiming commitment. Superstitions follow us everywhere, from the claims that a particular space in the cave’s war is haunted to the silent worry in my mind that we could be easily kidnapped and sacrificed.
Pine cones and hopes for tomorrow
My fears are cured by our ascent. The climb back up is harder than the trek down but we walk back to the top with hearts racing and chests burning. I am soaking wet but determined to get back up. At some point in the climb up, I had to stop as the most beautiful view of the land below came into sight and it left me awestruck. My photography skills and my camera left me handicapped to capture it but the image is vivid in my mind as I type.
We arrived at the top, lungs burning but triumphant at the experience. Our bus did not arrive on time to take us back to town. While waiting and shivering I discovered some pine cones. Hard on the outside, these little seedlings bear the promise of new growth.
Something that I can only wish for my country.
I say this because of everything we know we could be but are not. I am very much tempted to turn this piece into a rant for better policies to be implemented on tourism. So I will just say a few things.
Enugu is a beautiful place and exploring it should be made easy. A place like Ngwo should have a clear path leading into it, an organized tourism system in place and a refuse disposal system.
I could go on and on but instead, I will encourage every individual reader to take out time to enjoy the beauty of the outdoors on their own.
In the dry season of course, after checking the weather forecast.
Tips on visiting Ngwo Pine Forest
- Go in a group. This is for safety reasons. The forest is large and anything could go wrong at any time. It will also be extremely boring to talk to yourself throughout the hike, except of course, you went to meditate and enjoy its serenity.
- Ask for directions. If you are new in town, make sure you ask the locals where to go and what to do. A question could save you hours of aimless walking.
- Ensure a tour guide takes you down to the cave and waterfalls. Be wary of people posing as tour guides who will try to defraud you of your money. Here are the numbers of official tour guides I found online.
MR CHIMAZE — 07037398162
MR IFEANYI — 09068303591
3. Ensure you take supplies on your hike. A bottle of water can do you so much good when you are panting for breath.
4. Wear the right clothing. A light shirt, trousers or shorts (preferably because you will need to roll up your trouser legs when you get to the cave) and shoes that are comfy and can be used to walk in water. Carrying a jacket along would not hurt either.
The most important thing is to appreciate every moment spent.
