Riding the Abuja-Kaduna Express: A guide to taking the train in Nigeria
It’s the end of the holiday season and a lot of us will be commuting back to different parts of Nigeria. If you are considering taking the train, there are some things you should know first. Here’s my experience riding the Abuja to Kaduna Express.
My Bolt driver parked across the road underneath the Carwash Bridge in Lugbe and we had a staredown that lasted for a few seconds before I gave in. I had no plans of crossing any roads in Abuja on foot. I made it safely across and he threw the dusty blue traveling bag that had borne all the scars of its journeys with me across Nigeria. It was 7:30 on a Thursday and I planned to catch the 10:00 AM train. The train leaves the station carrying passengers four times a day. Click here to find out the current schedule.
Normally, you would not need to arrive at the train station two hours before your journey but train tickets are prone to get sold out fast or disappear into the murky depths of the black market.
I arrive at the train station after passing through Idu community. By the left side of the road, humans move about performing morning rituals as the sound of the stereo mutes the outside world. This is my first time taking the train and I am totally absorbed in the scenery. The train platforms rise in and out of my view and I see the only sign of modernization.
From the car park, I have to proceed on foot. If you are a hotshot or dignitary the security guards will let you through. I am none of these so the only reception I get is from a young man offering to carry my bag for a fee. After inquiring if the terminal is far from where I am currently standing, I wave him away explaining that I do not have enough to pay him.
I walk some yards to the terminal and meet a line of people forming behind the closed doors. It is to 8 and the rush for the tickets has begun.
Many Nigerians prefer to use the train because of several reasons
1. Insecurity: the Abuja-Kaduna highway has been plagued by numerous kidnappings and in order to avoid stories that touch, Nigerians flock to the train stations in search for safety
2. Cost-efficient: a train ride costs 1300 for the economy section which is below what you’ll pay for a taxi to the capital city to Kaduna.
3. Convenience: riding on peaceful trails on two hours seems like a better alternative to bumpy one-lane rides along roads that have been under construction for years.
The journey is still the same amount of time as taking the car (that is if you arrive at the train station two hours early like me)
The line of people in front of me quickly disappears into the hall where tickets are bought. First-class tickets cost N3000 and Economy tickets cost N1300. As usual, someone cut the line in front of me. Twice. A loud voice belonging to an enraged woman demanding first-class tickets breaks through all the noise in the hall. Apparently, a crime has taken place and the train officials had to solve the case of the sold-out tickets.
Minutes into our arrival the railway staff claimed that first-class tickets had finished. Which was well absolutely ridiculous, because no one was supposed to have bought them. Maybe there is a black market being run and tickets were being sold behind the counter.
Rolling my eyes at Nigerians being Nigerians, I buy my ticket at N1300 but have to let go of my change of N200 because they do not have any. A lot of other passengers do so too. The staff would be making tons of money from the uncollected change.
Let's do some quick maths. Assuming each coach contains about 80 people and half of those people arrive at the train station with 1500 and leave the change of N200. That’s 200x40 which equals 8000 per coach. I highly doubt this money will go to the government.
I was later told that it is the procedure to be asked to present one's ID before being able to get a ticket. It seems protocol was thrown to the wind on that particular day. It is best to hold on to your ID card just in case.
I walk to the waiting area and deposit my bag onto the conveyor belt of the X-ray scanning machine. The security man waves me through after judging the contents of my bags safe. The hands-on the clock at the doors leading to the boarding area declares the time to be 8:15. My train is to leave by 10:00. Two hours pass with me watching anime and staring at random people.
The people at the train station are diverse. There were families sitting together and single stragglers like me looking around to pass the time. Huge bags that could easily accommodate the human body line the waiting area. Children run about, happy to enjoy the wide-open space while adults stare at their watches wishing time to pass quickly. My eyes wander up the stairs that led to the separate waiting area for first-class passengers. The waiting area is a bit cold so you may want to bring along a jacket. A good book might not hurt too.
At 9:45 AM, a voice over the intercom says something intelligible and all around me people shoot up and rush to the areas cordoned off by red tape. Railway staff sign on tickets and then allow passengers through to board the train.
If you happen to have luggage please take the elevator. I am near breathless and losing sensation in my right arm by the time I climbed up to the platform. I take the elevator down without question.
Each ticket has a coach number and a seat number. My coach is number 12 and my seat number is 45. I get a seat with a wall socket and a table! Perfect for work you say? I agree but I do absolutely nothing but stare out of the window throughout my journey, bored out of my mind. Waste of time? Yes, I agree.
The green seats of the coach slowly fill up as people find their seats. Space for luggage is provided above the seats with white racks holding up the luggage of passengers.
The journey begins at a few minutes past ten. The lights in the train come on along with the soft touch of cold air that rapidly turns a bit too chilly for comfort. The train pulls away from the platform with some passengers standing. This is the reason why most people come early to buy a ticket. People who buy tickets late or board from the train station at Kubwa have to stand for the two-hour journey. Not only is standing awkward it is terribly uncomfortable.
My eyes grow accustomed to the movement of the train as it pulls away from the train station. I am sitting in the opposite direction to its movement and it felt like we are moving backward.
Shrubs and thickets of grass enter and fade away from my view. We pass several streams and a small river all separated from the tracks by a fence that was there sometimes and wasn’t at times.
A railway staff goes through each coach checking the tickets of the passengers. He punches holes in them after briefly inspecting each one. You should hold on to your tickets as there is a huge fine if you are caught riding on the train without one.
The train finally arrives at Rigasa station in Kaduna by 12:22. The outside world has people milling about some finding family or drivers to take them to their destinations. Others like me have to walk further down to look for cabs to proceed on our journies. The train stands empty watching her passengers walk away ready for another journey in a few hours.
Here are some tips for taking the train
1. Arrive early to get a ticket. You really do not want to stand for two hours or be stranded for hours waiting for the next train. Here is a list of the train schedule to know what times it leaves.
2. Carry a jacket. The waiting area and the coach get cold. A jacket will keep you warm and toasty.
3. Take the elevator if you have luggage. It is best to not be out of breath and all sweaty when God has provided an easy way to transport heavy burdens into the trains
4. Hold on to your ID card and train tickets till you are off the train.
5. Watch your step when stepping into and out of the train. There is a little space between the steps and the platforms and it is dangerous to fall through. And beware of deranged people who might want to push you in. P.S. people sometimes rush into the train in a mad frenzy when they are boarding late.
6. Play music, read a book, sleep or work. If you have two hours of nothing to do, it is best to utilize it. working with the internet might be frustrating because the network kept fizzling in and out though.
Drop a comment if you have any questions about taking the train.
